Food. But Is It Art?
Just as the question of whether food can be described as art is subjective, so is art. Art takes the form of many styles, mediums, applications, and periods, and in that same fashion, so does food. Intention and purpose play a massive part in my belief of whether food or dining experiences are classified as art. However, food can be art if someone believes it to be, whether that is the guest or the chef. “Art is produced when one's creativity is used to create something experienced through our senses” (Meyer, 2023).
I believe that just as art has movements, so do food; modernist, slow-food, and casual are all food-related movements that we have experienced in our lifetimes and can very much equate to the likes of minimalism, realism, or even abstract. Each experience or dish can be art, but not all will be for every person. In general terms, some characteristics will determine what some would call mainstream “art.” Of course, the food or service experience should be visually stunning, thought-provoking, or evoke some emotion. Restaurants such as Noma, The Fat Duck, Alinea, and Alchemist are so comprehensive, creative, and thought-provoking that their dining experiences can only be considered art. I believe the general public would agree. Even Massimo’s argument that food cannot be “free” because it must taste good is challenged by Alchemist’s Plastic Fantastic dish meant to “look like” something rather than have a specific flavor and taste profile (World’s Best Places — An inside look into the world’s best restaurants and hotels, 2024).
Acclaimed pastry chef Cedric Grolet is not only one of the best pastry chefs in the world, but he is also an Instagram star! He specializes in visually stunning pastries, including fruit tarts that look exactly like the real thing. If we were to categorize his art, it would be realistic. Even though the pastries aren’t necessarily innovative or ground-breaking, their classical nature and technical precision make them fit for true gourmands.
Oops! I dropped the lemon tart was a dish that shattered the perception of a well-plated dish. Chefs looking to emulate Massimo Bottura’s prowess started splattering sauces on entrée and dessert plates to achieve the same abstract look. This dish was popular during the ‘deconstruction’ era, where individual components of a familiar dish were changed and tweaked into something new visually and texturally. The thought process behind this dish was a humble one of representing the south of Italy, sourcing ingredients from different micro-regions all on one plate, and Massimo described this dish as “innovative and provocative” and to make guests feel comfortable about a supposed ‘mistake’ in the kitchen (Millington, 2018).
Starting as a collaboration with the artist who curates the art for Alinea, the iconic table dessert has become art in its own right. Chef Grant himself describes this debut as performance art meant to entertain and be visually stunning, and the experience is just that… with a bit of nostalgia. The dessert usually takes on familiar forms with a modernist twist, like peanut butter and jelly or banana, peanut butter, and chocolate. Grant’s goal is for this to be an interactive dining experience meant to break the monotony of regular dining. Having experienced this myself in person, I’d say he’s reached his goal.
References:
Bateman, K. (2017, October 18). Surreal fruit pastries have made this chef an Instagram star. Vogue. https://www.vogue.com/article/cedric-grolet-fruit-pastries-instagram
Meyer, I. (2023, August 1). Types of art – An exploration of the different types of art. Art in Context. https://artincontext.org/types-of-art/
Millington, A. (2018b, December 12). I met the best chef in the world, and the story behind his most iconic dish is surprisingly relatable. Business Insider. https://www.businessinsider.com/massimo-bottura-best-chef-in-the-world-stories-behind-iconic-dishes-oops-i-dropped-the-lemon-tart-2018-9
Snyder, C. (2017, August 14). The best restaurant in America paints a dessert on your table — here’s what it’s like. Business Insider. https://www.businessinsider.com/one-of-alineas-most-popular-desserts-work-of-edible-art-grant-achatz-chicago-panel-2017-8
World’s Best Places — An inside look into the world’s best restaurants and hotels. (2024, April 21). Alchemist 2.0 restaurant review — WBP Stars. WBP Stars
